Start your engine and let your Civic idle for a few minutes to heat up your oil. Additionally, this will allow more of the gunk and contaminants inside of your engine to flow out with the old oil. Make sure your Civic is on a completely level surface before beginning work.
Next you should jack up the vehicle to allow a bit more space underneath for you to work. Jack it up and place a jack stand directly behind the jack. Slowly lower your jack on to the jack stand and make sure it is stable. Never work underneath a vehicle with only a jack holding it up. The jack can slip or roll away resulting in serious injury. Pop open the hood and remove the oil cap. This allows the oil to flow more freely as it will act like a breather. The drain plug bolt head will be facing the rear of the vehicle.
Take your oil pan and situate it just underneath this drain plug. Note that the oil never flows directly downwards, it flows out and down. Take a 17mm wrench or socket wrench and begin removing the oil drain plug bolt.
Be cautious of the hot oil that will soon be flowing out of the drain and be sure to wear protective eyewear and rubber gloves. Pay attention to the difficulty in turning the drain plug bolt.
As soon it is possible to do so, start turning the bolt by hand. As soon as the bolt is free, be sure to keep a good hold of it and pull it away so it does not fall into the oil pan.
It happens to the best of us! Allow a few minutes for the oil to drain. Wipe off old oil from the surfaces around the drain plug. As soon as the oil is done draining, insert back in the oil drain plug. To remove the old oil filter, simply unscrew it off. If you cannot quite get it by hand, you will need to use a set of oil-filter pliers.
If the filter has been over-tightened and cannot be unscrewed by hand or with a set of filter pliers, you can drive a long punch through it and use it as a handle to unscrew the filter. Make sure that the old O-ring is not still attached to the engine. If it is, simply pull it off as we will be using the new O-ring attached to your new oil filter. Take your new oil filter and lightly apply some oil to the O-ring. Screw the filter on by hand. Again, this only needs to be hand-tight.
Lower your Civic back down by jacking it up a bit more off of the jack stand. Pull the jack stand out and then lower the car completely. Go back to the engine bay and begin pouring your new oil back in to the engine. You may need to use a funnel. The engine requires 3. Try to pour slowly and make sure you get exactly 3. Conventional oil in today's engines can easily last over 5, miles between changes.
Synthetic oils are even more durable, maintaining good engine performance beyond 10, miles. Other viscosities might be appropriate depending on operating conditions.
Check for the correct part number online or at the parts counter of your local auto parts store. Begin by locating the jacking point on the driver side of your Civic. It's just behind the front wheel. Place the jack just beneath the jacking point so that upon contact, the jacking point will be centered on the jack.
It's helpful, but not necessary, to jack up both sides of the car. Since the oil drain plug is on the driver side of the car, jacking just the driver side should be sufficient.
Lift the car high enough so that you can fit the jack stand beneath the car next to the jack. Be sure the jack stand is centered beneath the frame, so that when the car is lowered it will sit evenly on the jack stand. Slowly lower the jack so that the frame of the car is resting securely on the jack stand. Never work underneath a car that is resting only on a jack. The jack can slip or fail resulting in serious injury. Locate the 17 mm hex drain plug. It will be on the driver side of the oil pan facing the rear of the car.
Slide the oil drain pan beneath the drain plug so that it catches the oil when you start to drain it. Use a 17 mm box-end or socket wrench to loosen the drain plug. When you're able to, remove the wrench and loosen it by hand. Be sure to wear protective gloves and eyewear. If the car has been running, the oil, transmission and exhaust may be hot. Also, keep some rags or towels close by in case of spills. Never reuse a compression "crush" washer.
Always replace the oil-pan nut with a new compression washer. Once you tighten the new one, it's should be considered "used. When the oil drain has halted, or slowed significantly drip Don't use a gunky towel; we want to try to avoid pushing any kind of junk into the oil drain hole.
Then insert the drain plug and tighten it with all the finger-strength your little fingers can muster. Use the box-end or socket wrench to lightly tighten the plug. Do not overtighten. This can strip the plug's threads or crack the oil pan. It is recomended to tighten the plug to the specified torque with the use of a torque handle refer to the service manual.
From the underside of the car, locate the oil filter. It will be installed on the engine block just above the driver side axle shaft.
Keep the oil drain pan nearby as you reach up to get a grip on the oil filter. Loosen it slowly and carefully, trying to avoid spilling oil. Pour the remaining oil out of the filter. Set it top-side down in the oil drain pan to allow any excess oil to drain. Now grab a clean rag or paper towel and reach up into the engine again to wipe off any oil from the face of the housing, where the new oil filter will seal against.
Now take that brand new oil filter, and with your finger, apply some new oil on the rubber gasket. Time to assume that uncomfortable position under the car again.
Reach up with the new oil filter and insert it into its new home; tighten to a nice snug fit. It's a very difficult space to get an oil filter wrench into if you need it. Place the jack under the jacking point again just next to the jack stand , and raise the car so that the car is off of the the jack stand.
Lift up the lever on the jack stand to lower its saddle column, and remove the jack stand from under the car. Be sure no one or nothing is under the car before you do all this. We especially like to keep our faces beautiful and non-pancaked. Now open the driver side door, and below the steering column to the left, there will be a cute little lever showing a white car with its hood popped up.
Pull the lever. The hood should be "popped". Find the hood latch centered at the front of the hood, just above the Honda emblem. With one hand holding the hood up, use your other hand to raise the hood prop rod and insert it into the corresponding notch under the hood. Locate your oil filler cap. It's on the top-right of your engine block. Unscrew it counter-clockwise. Holding the funnel with one hand, use your other hand to pour in about 3. Eyeball it. It's better to add too little at first because it's always easier to add more rather than drain the extra oil.
Once you're done with that, screw back in the oil filler cap so that it's a snug fit. Remove it again to ensure the oil is at the proper level between the two holes, or slightly above. If it's too low, you can add more - repeat steps 13 and 14 above accordingly. If it's slightly above, don't worry; some will drain into the new filter. If it greatly exceeds the maximum level indicated by the upper hole, you'll need to drain some - refer back to steps 3 through 6. Be sure that you don't leave any trash on top of the engine, and make sure the oil filler cap and dipstick have returned to their respective places before closing the hood.
Before driving anywhere, start the car and let it run for a couple minutes. While the engine is running, check underneath the car for any oil leaks. If oil is dripping from the drain plug you should first check for any cracks in the drain pan. If there are no cracks, you can turn off the car, and tighten the drain plug.
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